Tracing the Rise and Fall of Hemingway & Fitzgerald's Friendship Around the Globe

Antibes, a city in the south of France where Hemingways spent a considerable time with Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald
Antibes, a city in the south of France where Hemingways spent a considerable time with Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald | Photo by Reuben Mcfeeters on Unsplash
Alex Ledsom

Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald were literary giants who became firm friends in Paris, hung out in the south of France and turned to frenemies on US soil. Their friendship spanned continents and cultures, leaving an indelible mark on the literary world. But, their bond was marked by highs and lows, successes and struggles. Culture Trip tells the story of how it all began and what followed after.

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It All Began In Paris

Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) was a larger than life author, famous for winning the Pulitzer Prize for literature and writing the heavyweight classics, The Sun Also Rises, A Farewell to Arms and For Whom the Bell Tolls. His friend, F. Scott Fitzgerald (1896-1940) was the more introverted author of The Great Gatsby and Tender is the Night. They first met in Dingo’s Bar in Paris and formed a fast friendship over a mutual love of drinking and writing. Fitzgerald was already a successful author while Hemingway was a jobbing journalist. The former had just published The Great Gatsby which is said to have inspired Hemingway to write a novel.

Their Friendship Moved to the South of France

Fitzgerald loved the south of France. He arrived after World War I and rented out a villa, Belle Rives (now a hotel) where he held wild parties and helped introduced jazz to the region (by inviting all the US jazz greats to stay at his house and play). Both men were part of the “Lost Generation”; people who came of age during World War I, who spent their lives chasing their demons, desperate to forget about the horrors of war. It is at the Belles Rives that Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda ceaselessly entertained their social set, which included the Hemingways. It is also here that Fitzgerald began to write Tender is the Night. The nearby Hotel du Cap is the fictional setting for the book.

The Hotel Belles Rives in Antibes where Fitzgerald lived when it was a villa

Hemingway and Fitzgerald Were Very Different

The relationship between the two men turned out to be superficial. They were wildly different and exemplified very different versions of manhood. Hemingway had multiple wives and relationships and got involved in many of the pivotal historical events of his time. He was an ambulance driver on the Front in World War I, reported on the Spanish Civil War and was present at the Normandy Beach Landings in World War II. He loved Game Hunting in Africa and was crazy about bullfights. Fitzgerald, on the other hand, was a hopeless romantic, had a tumultuous relationship with his only wife, and was always the outsider. As Hemingway roamed around Cuba, the African Savannah, Barcelona, and his home in Key West, he began to trade barbs with Fitzgerald who had returned to America to set up home in Alabama.

A US stamp portraying Hemingway circa 1989

Things Turned Sour in 1930s America

The two men continued their relationship by letter, corresponding throughout the 30s. In 1934, a 39-year-old Fitzgerald asked the 36-year-old Hemingway for his feedback on his newly released book, Tender is the Night. Hemingway did not hold back, giving him a lot of his advice on the characters and plot, saying “I liked it and I didn’t… it’s not as good as you can do“. The book only received a warm response upon release but is now widely considered one of the best books of the 20th century.

Regardless, Both Men Were the Best of Frenemies

Hemingway is often characterised as the harsher of the two. He was known to criticise Fitzgerald behind his back, which was often seen as harsh when his own star was rising just as Fitzgerald’s was fading. What’s clear is that they always held each other’s writing in high esteem, even if not their individual characters. Hemingway told Fitzgerald near the end of his life, that “you can write twice as well now as you ever could”. In return, Fitzgerald often referred to Hemingway as the “greatest living writer of our time”.

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.

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